Yes, you'll need caster wheels with M10 stem mount. Note that a full fermenter will have a high center of gravity. Moving it while full will pose a increasingly higher risk as it can fall over. Caster wheels must be designed so that center wheels are vertically aligned with center M10/stem and not side-shifted as most are.
The port is for future heating element. It will allow fermenting at higher temperatures, typically up to 40°C which is neede for some farmhouse yeast like the Norwegian "Kveik".
Yes, our 2" sight glass is designed to hold at least 2 bar pressure. Having a sight glass at the bottom dump port can be useful as it allows you to see what is heading out of the dump valve.
Minimum recommended volume is defined with respect to the cooling jacket and future heating element. The cone volume is defined in the specification in the user manual. To get an effect of the cooling jacket you will need to have the at least 10cm overlap. The more, the better. Maximum volume is highly dependent on type of beer and expected yest activity. We recommend to use the recommended limits given in the specification section.
Yes, we have done this with very good results. Connect your brewing system to the cooling jacket and use the pump to circulate water at desired temperature.
Check that the 34mm TC Butterfly valve on the Blow-Off tube is closed.
Based on experience, the top 8" TC port might be the problem. Check that the gasket is well placed all around the edge. Hand tighten the clamp and use the tool supplied with the fermenter to do some additional tightening.
The pressure relief valve is designed for 2 bar +/- 0.2 bar. So, if you are pushing above 1.8 bar, you might experience that it is the pressure relief valve that is "leaking".
Alway remeber that a pressuized fermenter is a safety concern. Never remove Tri Clamps if the fermenter is pressurized. Always ensure you have a way to manually release pressure. Never operate the unitank without the pressure relief valve (safety valve).